Some recipes are heirlooms. Ulundhu kali — a dark, glossy halwa of black gram, palm jaggery and gingelly oil — is one of them, traditionally made for girls at puberty and for mothers recovering from childbirth, always with the same words: it strengthens the back and hips.

The wisdom inside the tradition

Urad dal is genuinely rich in protein, iron, calcium and folate; sesame oil brings healthy fats and more calcium; palm jaggery adds iron and minerals. For bodies doing the heavy work of growing and recovering, it's a dense little package of exactly what's needed.

Making it at home

Roast and grind whole urad dal (traditionally with a little raw rice), cook the flour into melted jaggery syrup, and stir in gingelly oil patiently until the mass turns glossy and leaves the pan. Strong-arm work — which is fitting, somehow.

A recipe passed from mother to daughter, doing quiet good all the way.

Serve a small ladle warm, and taste why some traditions never needed convincing.